Light Electrical Wiring Diagram

(solve) FG wilson, ayaw umandar

Ayaw umandar ng genset
1. Nasunog ang module ( ibinaba ang fuse ng module, para direkta na)

2. Check ang battery ( ok, 12.9 volts)
3. Rekta sa starter, pinag short lang at gumawa ng wire na pang shorted. (ayaw umandar, naiikot lang ang fan ng radiator)

4. Rekta ang Injection Pump. (umandar, ayos na)

Note: Sa pagrekta ng injection pump, gumamit ng dalawang wire, para direkta ang linya sa battery.
Para malaman ang positive ng injection pump, habang nakakabit pa ang original wire ng injection pump, iangat muna nang lumabas ang metal part,
Ilagay ang wire sa positive ng batery, yung dulo ay sa injection pump, dalawa lang naman ang linya ng injection pump, positive at negative. Hanapin lang natin ang posite. Idikit ang dulo ng wire, alin man sa dalawa, kung sa pagdikit sa isa ay nag spark or umaapoy, yun ang negative, then idikit naman sa kabila at di nagspark, yung ang positive, ikabit na dun, positive. At maglagay ng wire, negative to negative. Malalaman mo na good ang Injection Pump, kapag nalagyan mo ito ng supply ay may click ka na maririnig.

Re: change oil, oil filter at fuel filter

Change Oil genset, change oil filter at Fuel filter
Generator
Brand: FG Wilson
Model : h16
kva : 20
Amp: 86
Pihitin lang ang oil filter at tanggalin.

Oil filter
Sa fuel filter naman

Para matanggal ang fuel filter, paluwagin ang turnilyo na nasa ibaba.
Kapag naikabit na ang bagong fuel filter. Kelangang magpasirit ng krudo para walang hangin na pumasok sa injection pump. Kung may hangin ay hindi aandar ang genset.

Paluwagin ang turnilyo na nasa itaas,

Then mag pump ng diesel, pisilin ito para dumaloy ang diesel papunta dun sa niluwagan na turnilyo sa may fuel filter , at kelangang sumirit ang krudo para mawala ang hangin sa loob.
1

Magpastart ng genset ng rekta, walang ignition switch

Itong starter, ay pagshortedin ang dalawang linya na ito, gumamit ng wire para magshorted at umandar ang genset.

Mag test ng main alternator kung may kuryente

Sa Ac voltage output, ilagay ang multitester sa Volt para makita kung may kuryente
Habang umiikot ang alternator, ilagay ang exiter na para sa Dc sa battery ilagay ang positive, tapos saglit na ilapat ang negative sa battery para mag excite at alisin agad ,tingnan kung pumalo ang tester. Ibig sabihin may kuryente.

(solve) Genset sa una umaandar, mayamaya ay namamatay

(solve) Genset - umaandar sa una, mayamaya ay namatay

Trouble:
Generator, kapag binuhay sa una ay umaandar, makalipas ang ilang minuto ay namamatay. Naka alarm sa red na ilaw na buhay ay ang Oil gauge.
Kumbaga kapag binuhay mo ang generator mayamaya ay bigla na lang namatay at alarm na signal sa module na red light ay sa Oil.
1. Tinanggal ang linya ng sensor ng oil sa body. At pinaandar (ganun pa din ang trouble)
2.Nirekta ang injection pump sa battery. (ganun pa din, namamatay pa din)
3. Ang alternator ay nakitang hindi kumakarga, na check ang battery 12 volts lang.
Ang ginawa ay ini exite ang alternator sa battery. (ayun nagkakarga ng kuryente sa battery, 13 volts na reading, at hindi na din namamatay ang genset, kahit may alarm na pula sa oil ng module, nirekta na.)

Paraan ng pag exit ng alternator para mag charge sa battery
Kelangang gumawa ng linya o wire sa positive(+) ng alternator papunta sa positive (+) ng battery.

Lagyan ng koneksyon (wire)yung nasa itaas (una sa tatlong terminal) yung puti. Papunta sa positive(+) ng battery.

Nilagyan ng switch sa gitna, ang pag exit ng alternator para kumarga, ididikit lang ng kaunting segundo ang positive ng alternator sa positive ng battery, para ma exite ang kuryente at magkarga.

Maari ding walang switch, kumbaga na ka dikit(konektado) na ng tuluyan ang wire kapag may sira ang linya.

Good Combustion

Good Combustion

Ang magandang combustion daw ang Ratio ng fuel at air, para maganda ang sunog.
Ratio: 15:1
15 psi of air
1 psi of air
Yan ang tama upang umandar ng maganda ang makina. Kapag nabago ang ratio nyan. Maaaring mamatay ang makina o kaya malakas ang tunog.
Paano gumaganana ang makina.
4 stroke
1. Intake - pagpasok ng pagkain or fuel at air
2. Compression - pagcompres or pagpisa ng pagkain ng makina. (fuel at air)
3. Power - pagsabog or pagsunog ng pagkain ng makina. Gamit dito ay sparkplug.
4. Exaust - paglabas ng usok.

Makikita sa larawan, idowload nyo ito, at itoy gumagalaw.
2 stroke

Sa motorcycle madalas, sa yamaha rs100 model. Pero wala na ngayon, 4 stroke na mga new model.
How to know the good smoke.
4 types of smokes.
1. Blue - more gas
Kapag daw kulay asul ang usok ng makina, malakas daw kumain sa gasolina. Kaya daw ang ginagawa dito para maayos ay calibration, tune -up ng carborador, dahil yung daw inaayos. Malakas sa fuel.
2. Black - kumakain ng langis, ang langis daw ay pumasok na sa makina, sumama na sa pagsunog, na hindi naman kasali sa pagsusunog, fuel at air lang dapat.
Ang cause daw nito ay maaaring maluwag na ang pagkakahigpit ng bolt or turnilyo kaya nakakapasok ang langis sa loob ng makina. At mapapansin din na madaling maubos ang langis ng makina kung titingnan nyo.
3. White - more air
Sobra naman daw ito sa hangin, maraming hangin ang pumapasok sa makina. Dapat 15 psi lamang.
Ang nangyayari ay namamalya o namamatay ang makina, kapag binibitawan ang silinyador. At ang tunog ng makina ay pupugak-pugak.
4. Color Less - ito daw ang good smoke. Walang kulay dapat ang usok ng makina. Hangin lang dapat ang lalabas.

AUTOMOTIVE MAJOR PARTS

Automotive Major Parts
1. Engine - main source of power. It covert chemical energy to mechanical energy.

2. Powertrain - yung dinadaan ng pwersa ng engine, tulad ng transmission at diperensyal
3. Frame
4. Running gear
5. Body
6. Chassis
Engine Classification Parts
1. Moving - yung gumagalaw na bahagi, tulad ng piston.
2. Stationary - yung mga hindi gumagalaw na bahagi. Tulad ng piston ring.

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Engine Accessories System
1. Cooling System
2. Fuel System
3. Lubricating system
4. Electrical system
Electrical sub-system
1. Starting sys.
2. Charging sys.
3. Ignition sys.
4. Lighting sys.
A. Head light
B. Park light
C. Tail light
D. Signal light
E. Hazard light
F. Stop light
G. Revese light
I. Horn

Other accesories
A. Dome light
B. Door light
C. Air conditioning
D. Car stereo
Eto daw ay para tumagal ang buhay ng makina.

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 Fuel System -kasama daw dito ang electric pump na nasa tangke papunta sa hose sa carburador.
Sa umaga, mahirap daw magpaandar ng makina, dahil nga magdamag na nalamigan, pinapainit daw muna ang carburador para umandar.


Ano ang pagkakaiba ng Diesel at Gasoline na makina
Gasoline -
1. gumagamit ng CARBURADOR na nagbibigay ng magkasamang gasoline at air ng sabay.
Magkasabay na ipinapasok ang gasolina at hangin sa loob ng makina.
Ang paraan nito sa pagpasok sa makina sa VAPOR FORM.

Alam natin kung paano umandar ang makina. INTAKE, COMRESSION, POWER, EXAUST di ba!

2. Ganito ang manner of operation sa GASOLINANG makina.

INTAKE - papasok ang gasolina at hangin in vapor form.

COMPRESSION - pipisain or i compress ang gasoline at air.

POWER - gumagamit ng Spark plug ang gasolinang makina. Mag spark ang SPARK PLUG at magkaroon ng pagsabog at power.

EXAUST - lalabas ang usok.

3. Maliit ang makina ng GASOLINANG makina. Dahil nga mixture na ng air at fuel magkasabay na ipinapasok sa makina. Alam natin na ang fluid ay hindi maicocompress sa maliit na bahagi yan ang fuel.


Diesel -
1. gumagamit naman ito ng INJECTION PUMP na nagbibigay ng Diesel lamang, krudo lang ang binibigay nito. Walang kasamang hangin.
Teka nasan ang hangin?
Ang hangin o air ay nauna nang pumasok sa loob ng makina.
Ang paraan ng pagpasok naman nito ay AUTOMIZED - break up of fluid into small particle.
Parang pang spray ng lamok, nagspray ka pero di mo sya nakikita, pero nababasa ka.

2. Manner of operation ng DIESEL na makina.

INTAKE - papasok ang hangin o air. Hangin lamang ang papasok.

COMRESSION - pipisain ang hangin or i compress. Iinit ang hangin dahil dito.

POWER - hindi gumagamit ng Spark plug ang diesel na makina. Walang spark plug.
Paano ito sasabog or magkakaroon ng power?
Dahil sa pag compress sa hangin o air, mag iinit ito. Iinject ng Injection Pump ang krudo o diesel. Dahil sa init ng hangin, magkakaroon ng pagsabog or power. Kaya dyan nasusunog ang diesel o krudo.

EXAUST - lalabas ang usok.

3. Malaki ang makina ng DIESEL na makina, dahil air lang ang naunang ipinapasok. Alam naman natin na ang air, ay madaling ma i compress sa maliit na bahagi.


Kapag maganda ang mixture, maganda ang tunog ng makina. Kung hindi, pupugak-pugak
.
FUEL TANK - tangke ng gasolina, yung nilalagyan ng krudo.

Paano nakakapunta sa makina ang krudo
Gumagamit daw ng Fuel pump or Electric pump, mula tangke, papunta sa hose, papunta sa carburador.
Tips:
Ang pressure daw ng loob ng tangke para makarating sa makina ay 30 psi to 60 psi.

Paano malalaman na nakakarating nga ang krudo o ang pagtest kung ayos or sira na?
1. Tingnan ang pressure nito sa pressure gauge, 30 psi to 60 psi, (ok)
2. Bunutin ang hose at isusi ang sasakyan para mabuhay ang pump, tingnan kung lumalabas na krudo.
3. Tingnan kung may supply na kuryente ang fuel pump, tingnan ang linya nya.

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Cooling System - maintain the normal temperature of the engine.

Ano ba ang normal temperature ng engine?
- 80 degree Farenhieght to 185 degree Farenhiegt
Malalaman din ito sa gauge.
Nakakatulong din ang init sa pagsusunog na makina. Dahil ang triangle of fire ay heat, fuel, air. Kaya pinapainit muna ang sasakyan, bago patakbuhin.

Normal temperature ng tao? - 37.5 C


2 paraan para mapalamig ang engine
1. Indirect cooling - gumagamit ito ng tubig, sa Radiator.
Dumadaan ang tubig sa [b]Water Jacket[/b].
Galing sa labas ang hangin na tumatama sa radiator kapag tumatakbo upang maalis ang init.
Kapag hindi naman tumatakbo ang sasakyan. Walang tumatamang hangin sa radiator kaya madalas mag overheat ang makina, kapag traffic, kesa sa mga tumatakbo. May paraan naman para maiwasan ito. Nilagyan ng AUXILARY FAN sa tabi ng radiator.
Kapag nag overheat ang makina ang nangyari ay matutunaw ang bakal at magdidikit sa kapwa bakal or mag expand ang bakal, at itoy katok na.

2. Direct Cooling - ito ay yung mga cooling pin. Yung aluminum, madalas ito sa motorcycle.
At yung fan na tinatamaan ng direkta ang labas ng makina.


Tip:
Kapag overheat ang makina, at nakitang kaunti na ang tubig ng radiator, huwag agad itong lagyan ng tubig, patayin ang makina at hintayin na lumamig, kapag malamig na saka lang ito lagyan ng tubig ang radiator.

Dahil kapag overheat ang makina at nilagyan agad ng tubig ang radiator. Mag expand ang makina, at magbabago ng hugis, loose compression, dahil bigla syang lumamig, dapat dahan dahan lang ang paglamig.

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Lubricating System - langis ng engine. Dumadaan naman ang langis sa OIL GALLERY. gamit ang oil pump.
Ang pressure ng Air sa paligid ay 14.7 psi.
Kaya ibinase dyan.
Ang normal pressure naman ng oil ng engine ay 15 psi to 180 psi.
Change oil = 10,000 km na ang itinakbo.

Loose Compresion ng makina- kapag kaunti na ang langis, or mahina ang pressure at di nakakarating sa lahat ng loob ng makina. Nag expand ang bakal. At maari ding humalo ang langis sa makina at magbuga ng usok na maitim.

Tumatagas ang langis - mapapansin na yung ibang makina ay tumatagas ang langis sa kung saan saan, maaring high pressure ang langis.


Hint:
Naghalo ang langis at tubig- dahil din daw sa overheat ng makina ang nangyari. Malalaman daw na naghalo na ang langis at tubig. Kapag kulay puti o gatas na ang tubig ng radiator. Magkatabi lang daw ang dinadaanan ng langis at tubig. Ang water jacket at oil gallery. Dahil sa sobrang init natunaw ang gasket na naghihiwalay sa dalawa. nagkaroon ng koneksyon ang dalawa.

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Charging System

Type ng kuryente
1. D.C. (direct current) = two way path curret.
Ang paraan daw ng pagdaan nito ay dalawa.
----Pwedeng + positive, papunta sa - negative.
----Pwedeng - negative, papunta sa + positive.

2. A.C. (alternating current)  = one way path current.
Ang paraan daw ng pagdaan nito ay isa lang dahil pabago-bago ito ng direksyon. Dahil magkasama sa linya ang - negative at + positive.


1. Conventional theory= ang positive goes to negative. + > -
Discharging daw ito, mauubos ang karga ng battery.
Kapag ang positive ay papunta sa negative.
Ito ay pinabasehan sa kidlat. Ang kidlat daw ay positive, saan tatama ang kidlat sa lupa, ang lupa ay ground. Ang ground ay negative. Ganito ang design ng mga engineer para di malito. Ganito din ang daan ng Diode, positive to negative. Ganito din ang makina o engine, ang ground ay negative. Positive to negative din.

2. Electron theory = negative to positive. - > +
Charging daw ito, magkakarga ang battery dito.
Ito ang tamang takbo ng kuryente. Ang electron ay negative. Ayon sa scientist.

Halos parehas din naman daw ang coventional at electron. Iilaw pa din ang kuryente. Kaya di na binago ang coventional.

Good charging
Kapag ang volts ay 12.5 v to 14.5 v.
Kapag bumaba dyan ay hindi nagkakarga ang battery, kapag tumaas na naman ay overcharging.

Makikita din sa gauge kung nagkakarga ang battery. Kapag sa gauge napatapat sa negative, hindi nagkakarga, kapag sa positive nagkakarga.

Charging Alternator - sya ang nagkakarga ng kuryente sa battery.

Hint:
Kapag tayo ay nagpapatakbo ng sasakyan at gumagamit tayo ng ilaw, napapapunta ang kuryente ng charging alternator sa ilaw at konti lang sa battery. Mapapansin na ang pointer ng gauge ay pagalaw galaw. Tumataas sa positive at bumababa sa zero. Ito ay normal lamang, kung hindi ka gagamit ng ilaw. Nakaturo lang ang pointer sa positive.
Kailangang ang belt ng charging alternator ay huwag masyadong mahigpit, kelangang kapag tinukuran mo ang belt ng alternator ay dapat lumubog ito ng 1 inch, para malaman na ito ay di masyadöng mahigpit.

Kapag sobrang higpit ng belt ng charging alternator, sisirain nya ang beering ng charging alternator, dahil hinihigit nya ito. Masisira ang charging alternator, mag shoshort, magdidikit ang positive at negative, apektado din ang battery mo at baka sumabog ang battery mo. Ganun din dapat sa kadena ng motorcycle, huwag masyadong mahigpit. Kapag masyadong mahigpit maaring umigkas ka sa arangkada, o kaya ay maputol ang kadena mo.
      Ang 4 wheels kapag full na ang charge ng battery ay nag aautomatic para di mag overcharge. Meron syang regulator.
     Ang motorcycle walang regulator. Mapapansin sa headlight na mahina ang ilaw, kapag umandar ka na ay lumalakas ang ilaw, walang nagkokontrol.

Click this para mas maunawaan.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_1/7.html

Basic Electrical Theory

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
UNDERSTANDING AND
TROUBLESHOOTING
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Basic Electrical Theory
For any 12 volt, negative
ground, electrical system to
operate, the electricity must
travel in a complete circuit.
This simply means that current
(power) from the positive (+) terminal of the battery must
eventually return to the
negative (-) terminal of the
battery. Along the way, this
current will travel through
wires, fuses, switches and components. If, for any reason,
the flow of current through the
circuit is interrupted, the
component fed by that circuit
will cease to function properly.

Perhaps the easiest way to
visualize a circuit is to think of
connecting a light bulb (with
two wires attached to it) to
the battery — one wire attached to the negative (-)
terminal of the battery and the
other wire to the positive (+)
terminal. With the two wires
touching the battery terminals,
the circuit would be complete and the light bulb would
illuminate. Electricity would
follow a path from the battery
to the bulb and back to the
battery. It's easy to see that
with longer wires on our light bulb, it could be mounted
anywhere. Further, one wire
could be fitted with a switch
so that the light could be
turned on and off.

The normal automotive circuit
differs from this simple
example in two ways. First,
instead of having a return wire
from the bulb to the battery,
the current travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since the
negative (-) battery cable is
attached to the frame (made
of electrically conductive
metal), the frame of the
vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete the circuit.
Secondly, most automotive
circuits contain multiple
components which receive
power from a single circuit.
This lessens the amount of wire needed to power
components on the vehicle.

HOW DOES ELECTRICITY
WORK: THE WATER ANALOGY
Electricity is the flow of
electrons — the subatomic particles that constitute the
outer shell of an atom.
Electrons spin in an orbit
around the center core of an
atom. The center core is
comprised of protons (positive charge) and neutrons (neutral
charge). Electrons have a
negative charge and balance
out the positive charge of the
protons. When an outside force
causes the number of electrons to unbalance the charge of the
protons, the electrons will split
off the atom and look for
another atom to balance out. If
this imbalance is kept up,
electrons will continue to move and an electrical flow
will exist.

Many people have been taught
electrical theory using an
analogy with water. In a
comparison with water
flowing through a pipe, the
electrons would be the water and the wire is the pipe.

The flow of electricity can be
measured much like the flow
of water through a pipe. The
unit of measurement used is
amperes, frequently
abbreviated as amps (a). You can compare amperage to the
volume of water flowing
through a pipe. When
connected to a circuit, an
ammeter will measure the
actual amount of current flowing through the circuit.
When relatively few electrons
flow through a circuit, the
amperage is low. When many
electrons flow, the amperage
is high.

Water pressure is measured in
units such as pounds per
square inch (psi); The electrical
pressure is measured in units
called volts (v). When a
voltmeter is connected to a circuit, it is measuring the
electrical pressure.

The actual flow of electricity
depends not only on voltage
and amperage, but also on the
resistance of the circuit. The
higher the resistance, the
higher the force necessary to push the current through the
circuit. The standard unit for
measuring resistance is an
ohm. Resistance in a circuit
varies depending on the
amount and type of components used in the circuit.
The main factors which
determine resistance are:

* Material — some materials have more resistance than others.
Those with high resistance are
said to be insulators. Rubber
materials (or rubber-like
plastics) are some of the most
common insulators used in vehicles as they have a very
high resistance to electricity.
Very low resistance materials
are said to be conductors.
Copper wire is among the best
conductors. Silver is actually a superior conductor to copper
and is used in some relay
contacts, but its high cost
prohibits its use as common
wiring. Most automotive
wiring is made of copper.

* Size — the larger the wire size being used, the less resistance
the wire will have. This is why
components which use large
amounts of electricity usually
have large wires supplying
current to them.

* Length — for a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire,
the greater the resistance. The
shorter the wire, the less the
resistance. When determining
the proper wire for a circuit,
both size and length must be considered to design a circuit
that can handle the current
needs of the component.

* Temperature — with many materials, the higher the
temperature, the greater the
resistance (positive
temperature coefficient). Some
materials exhibit the opposite
trait of lower resistance with higher temperatures (negative
temperature coefficient).
These principles are used in
many of the sensors on the
engine.

OHM'S LAW
There is a direct relationship
between current, voltage and
resistance. The relationship
between current, voltage and
resistance can be summed up
by a statement known as Ohm's law. Voltage (E) is equal
to amperage (I) times
resistance (R): E=I x R Other
forms of the formula are R=E/I
and I=E/R

In each of these formulas, E is
the voltage in volts, I is the
current in amps and R is the
resistance in ohms. The basic
point to remember is that as
the resistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of current that
flows in the circuit will go
down, if voltage remains the
same.

The amount of work that the
electricity can perform is
expressed as power. The unit
of power is the watt (w). The
relationship between power,
voltage and current is expressed as: Power (w) is
equal to amperage (I) times
voltage (E): W=I x E This is only
true for direct current (DC)
circuits; The alternating current
formula is a tad different, but since the electrical circuits in
most vehicles are DC type, we
need not get into AC circuit theory.


Credit:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringproblems.html

Electrical Components

Electrical Components
POWER SOURCE
Power is supplied to the
vehicle by two devices: The
battery and the alternator. The
battery supplies electrical
power during starting or
during periods when the current demand of the
vehicle's electrical system
exceeds the output capacity of
the alternator. The alternator
supplies electrical current
when the engine is running. Just not does the alternator
supply the current needs of the
vehicle, but it recharges the
battery.

The Battery
In most modern vehicles, the
battery is a lead/acid
electrochemical device
consisting of six 2 volt
subsections (cells) connected in
series, so that the unit is capable of producing
approximately 12 volts of
electrical pressure. Each
subsection consists of a series
of positive and negative plates
held a short distance apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and
water.

The two types of plates are of
dissimilar metals. This sets up
a chemical reaction, and it is
this reaction which produces
current flow from the battery
when its positive and negative terminals are connected to an
electrical load . The power
removed from the battery is
replaced by the alternator,
restoring the battery to its
original chemical state.

The Alternator
On some vehicles there isn't an
alternator, but a generator. The
difference is that an alternator
supplies alternating current
which is then changed to direct
current for use on the vehicle, while a generator produces
direct current. Alternators tend
to be more efficient and that is
why they are used.

Alternators and generators are
devices that consist of coils of
wires wound together making
big electromagnets. One group
of coils spins within another
set and the interaction of the magnetic fields causes a
current to flow. This current is
then drawn off the coils and
fed into the vehicles electrical
system.

GROUND
Two types of grounds are used
in automotive electric circuits.
Direct ground components are
grounded to the frame through
their mounting points. All other
components use some sort of ground wire which is attached
to the frame or chassis of the
vehicle. The electrical current
runs through the chassis of the
vehicle and returns to the
battery through the ground (-) cable; if you look, you'll see
that the battery ground cable
connects between the battery
and the frame or chassis of the
vehicle.
NOTE: It should be noted that a
good percentage of electrical
problems can be traced to bad
grounds.

 LOAD
Every electrical circuit must
include a "load'' (something to
use the electricity coming from
the source). Without this load,
the battery would attempt to
deliver its entire power supply from one pole to another. This
is called a "short circuit." All
this electricity would take a
short cut to ground and cause a
great amount of damage to
other components in the circuit by developing a tremendous
amount of heat. This condition
could develop sufficient heat
to melt the insulation on all the
surrounding wires and reduce
a multiple wire cable to a lump of plastic and copper.


Credit:
http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringproblems%202.html


1 ilaw ay 5 ampere. Kapag 4
ang ilaw 5 x 4 = 20 Kay 20
ampere na fuse ang
gagamitin./

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auto wiring website

1. http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/css/14273_31.htm
2. http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/
3. http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringdiagrams.html
4. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm
5. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-does-stuff-work-89654.html
6. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-does-stuff-work-89654.html
7. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/wfc1.htm
8. http://www.next.gr/automotive/lighting/
9. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
10. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
11. http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/css/14273_31.htm
12. http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/
13. http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringdiagrams.html
14. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm
15. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-does-stuff-work-89654.html
16. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/wfc1.htm
17. http://www.next.gr/automotive/lighting/
18. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Magpastart ng genset ngrekta, walang ignition switch Itong starter, ay pagshortedin

[b]Magpastart ng genset ng rekta, walang ignition switch[/b]

[list][url=http://www.imagehosting.com/][img]http://piczasso.com/i/pw1zl.jpg[/img][/url]
Itong starter, ay pagshortedin ang dalawang linya na ito, gumamit ng wire para magshorted at umandar ang genset.[/list]